Why Is There So Much Scrutiny Over Kinky and Coily Hair?

If you have kinky or coily hair (or if you by chance deal with textured hair) then you know that caring for such an intricate hair type comes with some challenges: it takes time, patience and it often requires using specific products and techniques. But on top of this, “owning” and presenting kinky and coily hair in its most natural form has not always worked to Black people’s advantage. And why is that?

Highly textured hair, especially if kinky and coily, has long been the subject of scrutiny, misunderstanding, and even discrimination over time. Natural hair textures that are common for Black people, can be viewed through the harmful lens of bias, which can lead to both social and professional challenges. Today things may not be as bad as they once were, but why is there so much stigma around kinky and coily hair in the first place? To answer this, let’s take a deep dive into the history, cultural significance, and modern-day implications of hair texture in Black communities.

The Historical Context of Black Hair Scrutiny

The scrutiny around Black hair dates back to the times of slavery, when European colonizers and enslavers viewed African features, including hair, as inferior. Eurocentric beauty standards were enforced, and natural Black hair, with its varied textures, was deemed "unmanageable" or "unprofessional." Because of slavery, Black enslaved people were often forced to cover their hair or alter it to align with the beauty norms of the time.

With the end of slavery not much changed and these standards of beauty persisted. During the early 20th century, straightened hair was seen as a way to "assimilate" into White society, which therefore was perceived as a necessary mean to improve the chances of social mobility. Methods like hot combing and relaxers became popular amongst the Black community, as straight hair was equated to professionalism, respectability, and upward mobility.

It is important to open a parenthesis here to mention that, due to it’s dimension and unarguable cultural influence, the United States of America have for long been a huge source of trends when it comes to fashion (which includes hair). The dissemination of the use of the hot comb (invented by François Marcel Grateau in the 1800s) and of hair relaxers (initially invented by Garry Augustus Morgan) within the Black communities in America is something that was also organically adopted by other Black communities around the globe.

The Politics of Hair: Cultural Appropriation and Discrimination

In recent decades, conversations around Black hair have become more prominent. Movements like the Civil Rights Movement in the 1960s and the natural hair movement in the 2000s encouraged the acceptance and the embracing of natural hair. However, despite these positive strides, the scrutiny remained. Black people still felt pressured to straighten their hair or wear wigs and weaves to fit into environments dominated by Eurocentric standards of beauty.

This scrutiny extended into the workplace, where natural Black hairstyles like afros, braids, dreadlocks, and twists were sometimes viewed as "unprofessional." In fact, there are instances where Black employees have faced discriminatory policies against their hair, with some even being fired or denied job opportunities due to their hairstyles.

Some people argue that cultural appropriation is another form of scrutiny Black people face regarding their hair. When non-Black people adopt traditionally Black hairstyles like cornrows, box braids, or Bantu knots, it is often seen as trendy or fashionable, while Black individuals have been criticized for using the same styles. This double standard further fuels the notion that Black hair is inherently different and subject to more stigma.

Media Representation and Beauty Standards

Like it or not, mainstream media plays a huge role in reinforcing standards of beauty. For decades, Black women and men with straighter or more "acceptable" hair textures were often prioritized in media portrayals. Kinky and coily textures were largely ignored or misrepresented, creating a narrative that only certain types of Black hair were worthy of admiration.

Recently, however, there has been a significant shift. Thanks to social media and the efforts of Black influencers and activists, kinky, coily, and curly hair is receiving more positive attention. Brands are developing hair products catering specifically to Black hair textures, and natural hair is being embraced in spaces where it was once frowned upon. However, the journey to full acceptance and appreciation of Black hair in its natural state is very much ongoing.

Psychological Impact of Hair Scrutiny on Black Individuals

The scrutiny surrounding kinky and coily hair doesn’t just affect appearances - it also has a psychological toll. After all, how does one heal after centuries of being told that their hair was ugly and unprofessional? Many Black children grow up internalizing negative messages about their hair, leading to feelings of shame or inadequacy. These feelings can persist into adulthood, affecting self-esteem and identity. It takes a lot of work!

The natural hair movement, with its message of self-love and acceptance, has been a powerful antidote to these negative experiences. Embracing our natural textures, can in some ways be viewed as us reclaiming our identities and challenging the status quo.

Moving Forward: Embracing Natural Hair and Ending Scrutiny

To reduce the scrutiny surrounding Black hair, it’s crucial for society to challenge and dismantle Eurocentric beauty standards. This involves educating others about the cultural significance of Black hair, advocating for anti-discrimination laws like the CROWN Act in the United States (which aims to protect Black people from hair-based discrimination), and celebrating diverse hair textures in all walks of life.

Black hair is more than just a style choice - it’s a reflection of culture, identity, and history. Understanding and embracing the beauty of kinky, coily, and curly hair is an important step towards inclusivity and equity.

In a world that values diversity, it's time to stop scrutinizing Black hair and start celebrating it for the crown of beauty that it truly is.

Conclusion

The scrutiny around Black hair—kinky, coily, and curly textures—is rooted in historical discrimination, cultural appropriation, and deeply ingrained beauty standards. However, through education, representation, and advocacy, we can shift the narrative towards one of acceptance, celebration, and empowerment. Embracing natural Black hair is not only a personal choice but a societal imperative in the ongoing fight for equality and self-expression.