Oils and Butters and Kinky, Coily and Curly Hair
If I had to guess, I’d say that my hair falls within the driest spectrum of hair dryness. I can’t go many days without having to use a leave in conditioner that also moisturizing properties, otherwise my hair will go extremely, dry, brittle and even the color changes.
Textured hair types, especially kinky and coily hair, tend to be naturally drier and that is because of the structure of the strands. The twists and turns of curls and coils make it challenging for the natural oils (sebum) to migrate from the roots to the ends of the hair, which often results in dry and brittle hair if not properly cared for. This is where the addition of oils and butters come into play, because these are vital ingredients in hair care.
Understanding Oils and Butters
Oils are generally liquid at room temperature and consist of essential fatty acids and vitamins that penetrate or coat the hair shaft.
Butters are thicker, creamier, and often solid at room temperature. They provide intense moisture, form a protective barrier on the hair shaft, and can add weight to control frizz.
Types of Oils and Their Benefits
Oils can be divided into two main categories: penetrating oils and sealing oils.
1. Penetrating Oils: these oils contain smaller molecules that can penetrate the hair shaft, providing moisture from within. Some of the most popular penetrating oils include:
Coconut Oil: Known for its ability to penetrate deeply, it reduces protein loss and strengthens hair, making it ideal for damaged or high-porosity hair.
Olive Oil: This oil is high in monounsaturated fatty acids and can nourish the hair and scalp, leaving hair softer and more manageable.
Avocado Oil: Rich in vitamins A, D, and E, avocado oil deeply conditions hair and is great for adding shine and moisture.
Sunflower Oil: Known for its high vitamin E content, sunflower oil can penetrate the hair and help maintain moisture balance.
2. Sealing Oils: these oils are thicker and stay on the surface of the hair, forming a barrier that locks in moisture. They are ideal for preventing dryness and frizz.
Castor Oil: Highly viscous, it helps to seal moisture, enhance hair thickness, and promote scalp health.
Grapeseed Oil: A lighter oil that locks in moisture without leaving a greasy residue, making it ideal for finer hair textures.
Jojoba Oil: Similar to the scalp’s natural sebum, it forms a protective layer while balancing the scalp’s oil production.
Argan Oil: Rich in antioxidants, this oil is lightweight and can help control frizz and protect hair from environmental damage.
Benefits of Using Oils in Textured Hair Care
1. Moisture Retention: Oils help prevent moisture loss, especially when applied after a leave-in conditioner.
2. Improved Elasticity: Penetrating oils can strengthen the hair shaft, which reduces breakage and increases elasticity.
3. Scalp Health: Some oils have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties that can soothe an itchy or irritated scalp.
4. Frizz Control: By sealing in moisture and smoothing the hair cuticle, oils can reduce frizz and promote shine.
Types of Butters and Their Benefits
Shea Butter: One of the most popular butters for natural hair, shea butter is rich in fatty acids, vitamins A and E, and has anti-inflammatory properties. It softens the hair, adds shine, and is ideal for thicker textures.
Cocoa Butter: With a higher melting point, cocoa butter provides a protective layer that locks in moisture and adds weight, which helps control frizz in thicker, kinkier hair types.
Mango Butter: Lightweight and rich in vitamins A, C, and E, mango butter deeply moisturizes without feeling too heavy, making it great for finer curls or high-porosity hair.
Kokum Butter: Known for being non-greasy, kokum butter helps with elasticity and can be mixed with oils to create a lightweight moisturizing cream.
How to Use Oils and Butters for Maximum Benefit
The LOC or LCO Method: Applying Liquid (or Leave-In), Oil, and Cream/Butter or Liquid, Cream, and Oil layers moisture in a way that maximizes hydration and retention.
Scalp Massages: Using a light oil like jojoba or grapeseed oil for scalp massages can promote blood circulation, boost scalp health, and reduce dryness.
Pre-poo Treatments: Applying oils before shampooing protects the hair from stripping, reduces tangling, and preserves moisture. Coconut and olive oils work well for this.
Sealing and Styling: Thicker butters can be applied after moisturizing products to lock in hydration, control frizz, and define curls.
Choosing the Right Oil and Butter for Your Hair Type
Fine Hair: Use lighter oils (like grapeseed or jojoba) and butters that don’t weigh hair down, such as mango or kokum butter.
Thick, Coarse Hair: Heavier oils like castor and olive oil, and thicker butters like shea or cocoa butter, work well to retain moisture and add shine.
High-Porosity Hair: Opt for penetrating oils like coconut or olive oil and use thicker butters to help seal moisture.
Low-Porosity Hair: Choose lighter oils like argan or grapeseed and use minimal butter, focusing more on leave-in conditioners.
Conclusion
Oils and butters are essential for keeping curly, coily, and kinky hair moisturized, manageable, and protected. By understanding the properties of each type, you can customize your regimen to cater specifically to your hair type and needs.
Experimenting with different combinations will allow you to find the ideal routine that leaves your hair hydrated, healthy, and beautifully styled!
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